Pompeii

After a deum horribilum (two hours arranging our rented Alpha Romeo, of course getting lost getting out of Rome, getting lost out of Ostia Antica and getting lost on our way to Pompeii) we drove around and around Pompeii trying to find our hotel in the dark. How can you swear and cry at the same time?? All was rewarded by the multiple of kindnesses of strangerei - including the restaurant owner of Il Gallo Nero. After finally finding our sanctuary at the Hotel Forum, we returned to his garden delight to have THE BEST MEAL yet: the pizza that has made Napoli famous, bresaoloa and arugula, fabulous bisteca and a bottle of Cantina del Tiburno Fidelis 2005. They say that the volcanic ash makes for fertile vineyards. We now believe it.

Saturday: It has been my lifelong dream to visit Pompeii and I'd just finished ready a marvelous book about the last four days before the eruption. I already had a picture in my mind, but had absolutely no idea how marvelous it would be. We were up early and off to the Scavi (ruins) and girded for relentless heat, bothersome tourists and hawkers. Instead, their was a breeze, few tourists and ruins were magical - a whole city frozen in time (imagine a city of 30,000 people going about their daily activities arrested in their tracks. The volcano shot up some 18 miles high, raining debris and ash, the another blast killed over 2,000 people in 30 seconds), the buildings were decapitated and the city was left completely untouched under 8 feet of ash and debris for some 1700 years. To say it is a world treasure is a complete understatement. The "exhibit" is completely engaging and they have a new statement that captures the emotions of one of the most extraordinary archeological sites I have ever seen PompeiViva. I am amazed that Hollywood hasn't eaten this up and put every CG 3-D animator on this with Pompeii I, Pliny's Pompeii, Return to Pompeii and Pompeii Uncovered already scheduled for release in MMX, MMXI and MMXII, MMXIII.

Tonight we'll walk the same ruins by moonlight. They recommend sensible shoes. I recommend a quick prayer to Jupiter (evidently in 79 A.D. the city fathers decided to forgo his annual celebration and sacrifice). Sunday we drive east over to the Adriatic Coast on A-16 (also a great restaurant in San Francisco), sort of across the ankle of the boot of Italy, up to the thigh and then west over to Perugia. From there is is a quick dash to Corciano where classes will begin on Monday.